The Independent Ear

New Orleans Diary V

Recent articles and reports in the daily New Orleans Times Picayune newspaper have detailed ongoing home demolition efforts in various still-devastated parts of the city.  Yes, now 29 months after the calamity of Hurricane Katrina, the subsequent collapse of the federal levees and resulting floodwaters, there are still hundreds if not thousands of devastated and dilapidated homes, unoccupied and abandoned yet still standing as ghostly reminders that New Orleans is far from whole. 

 

Other newspaper articles detailed the coming legions of good folks, many on Spring Break from school, who are on their way to New Orleans to further stoke the ongoing volunteer recovery efforts, including home building.  Yes… 29 months later this place remains in recovery at a snails pace.

 

Driving through various neighborhoods, notably the Ninth Ward, Lower Ninth Ward, Gentilly, and Ponchartrain Park areas, one is struck by their ghost town quality.  As Suzan Jenkins and many others have remarked, you can drive down those streets and sure you see homeowners who have persevered and determined to remake their abodes, but one cannot get beyond the fact that basic services are minimal (schools, hospitals, grocery stores, etc.) and the ongoing blight of abandoned structures tilting on their sides in various states of complete disrepair represent ongoing health and safety hazards even to those laudable post-Katrina pioneers.  So what must the quality of life be like on what one writer described as those "gap-toothed" streets?

 

Two young friends recently visited the city on holiday for the NBA All-Star game festivities.  That was a splendid weekend in the city, full of parties and various hilarity, and the presence of a galaxy of "stars".  The spotlight shone brightly on New Orleans during NBA All-Star weekend and the city came through like the champion host it has always been.  Numerous visitors, pretty much confined to the Central Business District (CBD) and the adjacent French Quarter, couldn’t help but leave satiated, impressed, and feeling the city was back together, made whole… it’s all good!  The total picture of New Orleans is quite a bit less than whole, as our friends were fortunate enough to experience.  We afforded them opportunities to contrast the real deal with the gloss of NBA All-Star game weekend festivities. 

 

In consideration of the fact that New Orleans is gearing up for the seven glorious days of it’s second biggest annual tourism period, the peerless event known as the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival (last weekend of April/first weekend of May), I asked one young lady, Adrienne Winston a budding ABC television producer, to reflect on her experiences that weekend and those glaring contrasts; thus offering a kind of preview for the thousands of impending Jazz Fest visitors.

 

Willard Jenkins: Had you ever previously visited New Orleans, and what were your past impressions of the city?

 

Adrienne Winston: I had never been to New Orleans but of course had heard wonderful things from people who had visited and friends who went to school there (pre-Katrina).

 

WJ: What was your sense of the city on foot; in the vicinity of your hotel in the CBD, the French Quarter, your NBA All-Star Game experience, etc.?

 

AW: Well obviously NBA All-Star weekend is a slightly skewed sample so it was incredibly crowded everywhere on Canal Street, especially in front of the Sheraton and Marriott on Canal, which were just two blocks from our hotel.  We stayed in a great location which was just feet from the French Quarter which we did some touring of, on our way to and from different restaurants.  Walking around even on the first day I understood why people loved the city so much, it is incredibly charming.  Even if you never go into the stores just walking by them and taking in the presentation and the architecture you can feel the history all around you.

 

I had heard before on the news that the French Quarter sat higher up than other parts of the city and so it hadn’t sustained much [flood] damage which I was really able to appreciate.

 

WJ: On Saturday of that weekend you got a chance to get out and see more of the city, in particular St. Charles Avenue on a taxi ride to Loyola University, and areas which weren’t as hard hit by Katrina as others.  What were your impressions?

 

AW: Our ride to Loyola and later with Suzan throughout the Garden District was breathtaking, it makes me want to buy property down there.  The homes are beautiful and they are all so different, you can see all of the cultural influences the city has absorbed over the centuries.

 

WJ: On Sunday you were given a small slice of what I refer to as the New Orleans misery tour.  What was your impression of the areas in disrepair and recovery that you visited?

 

AW: What struck me first was that literally just a few blocks from where we had been partying there was a very literal tent city below the highway.  [At the corner of Canal Street and Claiborne Avenue, under the I-10 overpass is an ongoing encampment of the homeless, many of who were made homeless by the Storm.]  Dozens of people living in tents, homeless.  It doesn’t take a genius to know these people are victims of Katrina, which is evident by their mounds of belongings surrounding their tents.  As we continued on, the difference between the attitudes of the city became more plain.  Damaged structures were becoming more numerous.

 

We crossed a bridge and were able to get our first glimpse of a neighborhood and it’s shocking proximity to the levees that failed.  Dozens and dozens of homes were simply left abandoned and there were piles of debris everywhere.  The trip over the second bridge however was by far the worst, presumably because the land sat ever lower.  There are no words for what I saw, we all started crying.  As you came over the [St. Claude] Bridge, even hundreds of feet away you could see the barren trees and homes with no roofs.  There were literally blocks and blocks of decimated houses.

 

Homes that sat directly in front of the levees had been swept off their foundations.  It seemed as though only brick homes had been able to withstand the force of the water.  We did see some homes that had been rebuilt but that was one in every few dozen; there was no neighborhood left.  You couldn’t even call it a neighborhood because the area was so big; it was [more like] a city.  A city that had been allowed to wash away and was left to fend for itself.  We actually passed a home that looked like it had been stepped on; honestly the house had been squished like an accordion.  I presume that it had been picked up by the flood water and dropped.

 

You can’t help but feel a hopelessness. [as though] the town has been completely abandoned, and it doesn’t look as though the government has any intention of putting it back together.  Among the blocks we drove you never saw any construction equipment, no sign that something was being done.

 

WJ: Give me your overall impression of New Orleans, considering both sides that you experienced.

 

AW: Overall the trip was a positive one.  We got to experience the spirit of New Orleans and enjoy her excellent food.  Even though the trip to the lower wards was very painful it had a positive impact on me.  It made me angry in the best way and I feel as though if more people were able to get one-on-one time with the destruction they would be just as outraged as the people who live there.

 

Yes indeed, the Yin & Yang of New Orleans!  Here’s one place music lovers in particular are encouraged to assist in the recovery of the very real human needs of New Orleanians:

Sweet Home New Orleans

1201 Saint Phillip Street

New Orleans, LA 70116-2931

504/596-3924 or toll free 877/933-8466

www.sweethomeneworleans.org

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Black Empowerment: Dune Records Pt.2

Continuing our conversation with Janine Irons on the development of the UK jazz label Dune Music.

 

Willard Jenkins: What’s the relative significance of Dune Music being a black-led operation?

 

Janine Irons: As a funded arts organization, it’s very significant.  In the mid-90s when the Arts Council was funding a lot of projects of dubious quality, they faced fierce criticism from the government and the public and in response cancelled much of the funding that had previously been in place for a number of black and white-led organizations.  Tomorrow’s Warriors however was ‘promoted’ by the Arts Council to the status of Regularly Funded Organization, and had it’s funding significantly increased.  We were seen as a strategically important national organization.  This was no mean feat because it placed us — in terms of strategic importance, if not perhaps in terms of overall levels of funding — on a par with much larger national organizations.  And Tomorrow’s Warriors was one of very few black-led organizations to achieve this status.

 

As a commercial organization I think it’s significant that a black-led organization has managed to stay the course in this industry and develop its own niche.  Let’s face it, it’s still very hard for black people to gain any kind of foothold in this, or indeed any other business.  As my father says: ‘As a black person you have to come first to come third’, so we have to work much harder and be significantly better than our white counterparts to get just a fraction of what we actually deserve, or to get as far along the field as we should for the same level of input and endeavor.

 

It’s also important for us as black people to create our own opportunities because there ain’t nobody out there going to hand them to us on a plate.  If we want to change our lot we’ve got to go about changing it ourselves.  We have to dig our own foundations and build our own ‘houses’ so that we can have some control over our own future and have something solid to pass on to those who come after us.  Furthermore, we hope that our successes will inspire others to follow suit and give them the confidence to take their destiny on their own hands.

 

WJ: Who are the artists currently recording for Dune?

 

JI: [Bassist] Gary Crosby, [trumpeter] Abram Wilson, [saxophonist-rapper] Soweto Kinch, [saxophonist] Denys Baptiste, [pianist] Andrew McCormack and their various outfits.

 

WJ: [At the time this is entering the Independent Ear Blog the big 2008 South By Southwest (SXSW) independent music conference held annually in Austin, TX — sort of the Sundance Film Festival equivalent for independent music, primarily progressive rock — is coming up shortly.  In 2007 Dune Music participated in the SXSW conference, an interesting choice for a jazz-oriented concern.]  Given your experience at the South By Southwest (SXSW) conference — an event not normally associated with music quite like Dune Music’s output — why or how did you determine to take part in that conference and what was the nature of Dune’s involvement?

 

JI: We’ve heard a lot about SXSW in terms of it being the largest live music conference and a good place to be seen by a lot of promoters and festival producers.  AIM (the Association for Independent Music — which is a body supporting indie labels in the UK) also recommended it as a good event for us to showcase at.  However, what we didn’t realize at the time was how few jazz and world music promoters actually attend the event.  But our objective in going was to try to introduce promoters (essentially U.S. promoters) to some of our Dune artists, and to look at opportunities for touring.

 

WJ: Was SXSW ultimately a successful venture for Dune?

 

JI: In short… no!  I think the event is too big.  There are thousands of people attending the event but since so few promoters or festivals actually register (I suppose because they don’t want anyone to know they’re there!), it is impossible to find them.  Also, unlike MIDEM in France nobody bothers to go into the tradeshow so it’s pointless having any kind of stand, and thankfully we didn’t.  Plus with SO many showcases going on it’s incredibly difficult to get the right people coming to your showcase.

 

We had a full house but essentially this was mostly local people coming for a night out.  We had only a handful of press or promoters there.  I think the majority of the key promoters attend the big showcases hosted by the majors — usually high profile affairs with lots of free booze and unfortunately people in the music industry tend to favor events where they’ll get a pile of free drinks!  That said, our showcase was successful in terms of finding some new fans.  And Abram did a live radio performance which led to his album making it to No. 1 on the radio chart in Austin.

 

WJ: Did you envision this as an initial effort at raising the U.S. profile of Dune?

 

JI: No, we’d already started doing that a couple of years before when we showcased Soweto, and later Abram, in New York.  These showcases were successful in getting a good deal of press coverage and radio play.  At the time we had distribution through Synergy, out of Denver, CO, and managed to rack up some fairly decent sales.  We retained a good PR man (Mitchell Feldman) who did a really good job in raising awareness of Dune.  However after only a few months of having our albums on the streets of America Synergy defaulted on paying us.  Having only recently been hit for a 35,000 pound [debt] by two of our distributors going bust, I wasn’t going to hang around to be stung again.  So we cut our losses with Synergy and looked around for distribution elsewhere.  Synergy has since folded as far as I’m aware… still owing us money! 

 

So far we haven’t managed to find another U.S. distributor, although we do undertake a small amount of trade through North Country Distribution.

 

Just before we went to SXSW we launched the new albums of Soweto Kinch [A Life in the Day of B19: Tales of The Tower Block] and Abram Wilson [Ride!  Ferris Wheel to the Modern Day Delta].  Both are digital releases only in the U.S. since we don’t have a physical distribution deal in place, and both have done really well on radio.  In fact, at the start of the campaign, we were up against Wynton’s release for a short time and gave Blue Note a run for their money!  So we’re continuing to have some kind of presence in the U.S. and are slowly building a fan base there; but it would be great if we could sort out some licensing of our product and get our product out to the jazz masses.

 

WJ: What’s coming next for Dune and how can potential U.S. and worldwide audience best access Dune recordings?

 

JI: We’ve just released Abram Wilson’s album in the UK and will be releasing the second part of Soweto’s B19 album in the fall.  We currently have no plans to record anything else this year but we’re hoping to be able to create a special Dune anthology to celebrate our 10th year.  This will of course depend upon our resources.  It’s difficult because we have so many live projects on the go and no label manager to exploit the catalogue. 

 

Right now, if someone were to give me a bag of money, recruiting a label manager would probably be the first thing I’d do.  We’ve worked it out that for the volume of work we do we need a minimum staff of 10.  We actually only have 2 staff and 2 interns, so you can imagine how stretched we all are at this moment in time, and how committed they must be to put in the hours to get everything done!

 

Project-wise we’ve got loads of things on the boil.  Not only are we celebrating 10 years of Dune we’re also celebrating 200 years of the Abolition of The Slave Trade Act in Great Britain.  So along with our artists’ regular projects we also have some projects significantly celebrating the end of the slave trade — at least the end of the official slave trade — but that’s another story!

 

Just to give our readers an idea of the nature of Dune’s efforts and their admirable project orientation, among Dune’s projects which celebrated the 200 year Abolition of The Slave Trade Act in Great Britain in 2007, Janine detailed the following:

 

Abram Wilson & the London Community Gospel Choir: "Roll Jordan Roll" (a tribute to the Fisk Jubilee Singers).

 

Soweto Kinch & CBSO Orchestra: "The Midnight Hop" (a music theatre/period drama looking at 18th/19th century Black Music in Britain and the contribution made by Black musicians to the classical music heritage of the UK) – with jazz ensemble, chamber orchestra, actors and dancers.

 

Denys Baptiste: "Anasi: Reunion" (with the migration of slaves, the character of Anasi has metamorphosed into different animals.  Here Denys brings together all the different characters from around the world in a kind of family reunion) — with jazz ensemble, narrator, and illustrator.

 

Jazz Jamaica: "Tighten Up!": celebrating the music from the Caribbean that has contributed so much to cultural diveristy and race relations around the globe.

 

As to how people in the U.S. and beyond can get their hands on our music, our entire catalog is available on iTunes, Napster, and a few other digital stores.  North Country Distribution carries some of our catalogue, but not all, so they can order from them. Or they can order directly from our website at www.dune-music.com, where we have both digital and physical product.

 

 

Posted in Indy Record Company P.O.V. | 3 Comments

Black Empowerment: Dune Records

Dune Records: Janine Irons pt. 1

A few years back my friend and colleague John Murph turned me on to a then-burgeoning record company started by black musicians in the UK, Dune Records.  The label has released potent music by such UK stalwarts as bassist Gary Crosby at the helm of his Nu Troop and the large ensemble Jazz Jamaica All-Stars rich amalgamation of jazz and Caribbean flavors; alto saxophonist-rapper Soweto Kinch; tenor saxophonist Denys Baptiste, and New Orleans transplant trumpeter Abram Wilson. 

 

Dune is an example of black empowerment in the record business that recalls such other African American-fueled record enterprises as the Stanley Cowell/Charles Tolliver Strata East label, as well as Detroit’s sister Strata label, Harold Battiste’s New Orleans modernist label AFO, and the old Black Jazz label; and in its musicians’ collective work and mentoring efforts, the AACM. The latest releases from Kinch and Baptiste all have significant narrative qualities that aren’t about Ooo Baby Baby or cash money pursuits and further propel their music.  Impressed with the collectivism evident in their musician-controlled environment, their education outreach, and the fact that each Dune recording is project-oriented and not some simple blowing session, I sought out Dune’s CEO Janine Irons for some insights.

 

Willard Jenkins: Please detail the origins and operating philosophy of Dune Music.

 

Janine Irons: In 1996 Gary [Crosby] was awarded a small grant from Arts Council England to produce a record by his group Nu Troop.  Our thoughts behind it were essentially to produce a high quality demo to send to promoters in order to help secure live gigs for the band.  On release, in April 1997, we received an excellent response to this recording (Migrations) in the national and specialist press, and so went on to record our next group, J-Life (who were graduates of our Tomorrow’s Warriors artist development program), again to secure live work.  Their recording — Tomorrow’s Warriors presents… J-Life (March 1998) — also received great acclaim and it was around this time that we started to win awards for both J-Life and Nu Troop.

 

Up until this point I had done everything apart from play the music!  I did the photography, the liner notes, the artwork, the press/PR, the distribution… everything!  However, with our third release, Denys Baptiste’s Be Where You Are (1999), we decided to engage professional designers to ease the pressures on me.  Again, this album received great critical acclaim and, to our utter amazement, was nominated for the Mercury Music Prize, the most prestigious music prize in the UK which looks for the best releases of British music regardless of genre.

 

This was a turning point in Dune’s life as a label.  Whereas previously we had never intended to be a commercial label, being thrust into the spotlight with the Mercury nomination forced us to see ourselves as a ‘proper’ label.  To take advantage of the interest in the label we hired a professional press officer, gaining substantial coverage and profile for Denys and Dune.  As a result we started to gain confidence in our ability to be a ‘real’ label and to get a sense of where we could go with it.  People started to take notice of Dune and to deal with us as professionals. 

 

It was rather scary, looking back, because I had absolutely no training or experience in the music industry and had simply worked on instinct!  Suddenly I was a record company executive and a real artist manager!  People were sending me their press packs and demos wanting to sign up!  Little did many of them realize that Dune was simply a desk in my living room with little old me sitting there.  But I suppose it’s a great compliment to have people see the work we were doing as high quality and professional even though we were just learning on the job.

 

So this is how Dune was born.  At the time my father said that we could become the Motown of jazz if we put our minds to it.  Gary and I laughed and dismissed it at the time, but as time went on we started to think more about it and how we could actually become a creative home for young black jazz artists.  After all, our work in Tomorrow’s Warriors meant that we were working with some of the most talented young black musicians, all of whom had an expectation that they would get to record an album.  Given how the major labels shun young talent it made sense for Dune to take on that A&R role and, wherever possible, provide ongoing support for the rising stars coming out of Tomorrow’s Warriors.

 

Today Dune exists to support the artists on the roster, most of who have been developed as members of Tomorrow’s Warriors.  The exceptions are Gary Crosby (as the founder of Tomorrow’s Warriors and Dune) and Abram Wilson, although Abram has immersed himself completely in the development of our young Warriors and is now the assistant director of Tomorrow’s Warriors.

 

We continue to receive demos from numerous musicians asking for a deal but what they fail to recognize is that we are not your average record label.  We don’t scout for talent.  All of our artists are musicians whom we’ve worked with over a very long period, whom we’ve helpted to develop and grow as artists.  We have very close working relationships with each of them and consider them family. For example, we’ve worked with Denys Baptiste since he was about 20 years old; with Soweto [Kinch] since he was about 15 years old; Andrew McCormack since he was about 16 years old.  We are deeply and personally committed to helping these guys achieve their full potential, not so much in how many records they can sell or how much money they can make.  Of course, now that Dune is a ‘commercial’ label we do have to think about the viability of their recordings.  But in terms of the projects that they do we always start by looking at the artistic value and not the commercial value.

 

At some point in the future we do hope to be able to take on more artists and for the label to be able to license product.  But given existing resources — I am the only artist manager in the company with a very small staff of two, soon to be three, and two interns — there is a limit to how much we can take on.  I certainly do not wish to take on an artist and not be able to give him or her 110% committment in terms of my time and resources. 

 

As an artist manager I take my responsibilities very seriously indeed because I am responsible for the career of my artists.  If they were to fail because I hadn’t been able to devote my time and resources to their careers I’d be devastated.  I already work a minimum 12-hour day, and at least twice a week I work through the night to stay on top of everything.  So right now I can’t give any more, especially as [she and Gary Crosby’s] daughter rarely gets to see me during the week apart from getting her ready for school!

 

So certainly for the time being, Dune can only consider artists drawn from Tomorrow’s Warriors, and to be a Warrior an artist must be totally committed not only to their art but also to the aims of the organization.  They must be committed to supporting their fellow musicians and to helping the organization develop into the creative home that we want it to be.  We want to create a legacy for the next generation so everyone involved, be they artists or staff, must have the right level of committment. 

 

WJ: Was Dune developed in response to what you and your cohorts saw as a disparity in either the UK jazz scene or a disparity of opportunity for the musicians involved?

 

JI: Absolutely.  The Jazz Warriors in the 80s helped to raise the visibility of young black jazz musicians, but that was pretty much short-lived.  As the individual members of the Jazz Warriors went off to pursue solo careers the platform for those coming after them was lost.  The major labels lost interest in jazz generally and in those artists in particular (with the exception of Courtney Pine who went on to build a very successful career) so there was nobody out there to support the youngsters coming up.  This is why Gary established Tomorrow’s Warriors in the early 90s.  He created a platform — through regular jam sessions at a good London venue — Jazz Cafe in Camden — for young musicians to come and join him on stage so they could develop their chops and gain some visibility.  [Gary Crosby] was particularly seeking out the young black musicians as he knew they were out there somewhere with nowhere to go.

 

One of the major problems facing young black musicians (then and now, though it’s not quite as dire now) was the lack of access to career development opportunities.  The majority of jazz musicians in the UK are white middle-class kids who’ve had private tuition from a very young age, had their own instruments, gone straight into their local youth jazz orchestra, studied music at school, and then gone into one of the conservatories, while perhaps [also] joining the National Youth Jazz Orchestra.  After that they come out already having become part of a network, making it easier for them to find work. 

 

Not so for your average young black musician who very likely has started music late because of cultural or economic reasons (or both), has not had the opportunity to take up music at school, or had their own instrument.  These youngsters are then significantly behind their white counterparts by time to go to college.  So they don’t make the grade to go to a conservatory because, for example, their music reading skills may not be up to scratch.  They’re not in any kind of network so have little if any support, and so they fall by the wayside.  If they’re lucky they might get the odd gig in their local pub but little beyond this.

 

Gary could see all this happening, and projecting into the future saw that unless something was done about it there would be no professional black jazz musicians in the UK in 20 or so year’s time.  Hence Tomorrow’s Warriors.  He was not so much interested in a young musician’s ability to read charts as in his or her raw talent and potential for development.  He wanted to see more black faces on the stages of our top venues; either as soloists or as members of orchestras and jazz groups, and really raise their visibility.

 

Fortunately the Arts Council of England also recognized the disparity of opportunity and was so willing to support Gary’s endeavors (initially through a series of very small grants to help him put on the weekly jam sessions.  As time has passed we’ve managed to develop the organization quite significantly so that today Tomorrow’s Warriors is recognized as one of the leading and most successful organizations for professional artist development and receives significant core funding from Arts Council of England as a regularly funded organization to pursue our aims and continue our work.

            Further info:  www.dune-music.com

 

[Editor’s note: Are you listening to that last paragraph National Endowment for the Arts?]

 

Next Time: Part 2 of our interview with Janine Irons discussing the significance of Dune Music rising from the black experience in the UK, as well as the future plans of Dune Music.  Stay tuned…

 

 

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Latest Crescent City Trumpet Flash

Shamarr Allen

"Meet Me on Frenchman Street"

 

At 26 trumpeter Shamarr Allen has amassed a storehouse of experience and is on the cusp of being the latest New Orleans-produced trumpet flash.  A proud product of the Katrina-devastated Lower Ninth Ward (his house was washed completely off its moorings when the nearby federal levee broke that terrible week in ’05) Allen was trained in NOLA’s traditional mentoring network fashion by such estimable teachers as Edward "Kidd" Jordan, the late Alvin Batiste, Clyde Kerr Jr. and the like. 

 

Shamarr is also steeped in the NOLA brass band tradition having been  prepped by the late and much-revered Tuba Fats and having performed in the Rebirth Brass Band, Hot 8 Brass Band, and Treme Brass Band among others.  For this debut recording he chose mainly to honor his elders — people like drummer Bob French (hear his Marsalis Music Honors disc from ’07), in whose Tuxedo Jazz Band Allen has performed for the last year.  French makes a cameo appearance on "Meet Me on Frenchmen Street" as do the great drummer Herlin Riley, traditional clarinet master Dr. Michael White, vocalist Arlee Leonard, and fellow trumpeters Irvin Mayfield (lookout for my @ Home feature on Mayfield in a forthcoming issue of JazzTimes) and Kermit Ruffins.  The latter, possibly New Orleans hardest working musician, joins the leader on the title track for some singin’ and swingin’ in that curious tradition of the singing trumpet player that starts with Pops and seems quite de riguer for Crescent City kings of the 3-valves.  Shamarr also puts a slick Latin twist on "St. James Infirmary."

 

But Shamarr Allen has a lot more on his mind than traditional New Orleans jazz updates; clues are tagged onto "Meet Me on Frenchmen Street" as two closing "hidden" bonus tracks.  Be on the lookout for a more complete rundown in my forthcoming "Players" feature piece on Shamarr Allen in an upcoming edition of Down Beat magazine.  After that piece we’ll give you the unexpurgated Q&A version of our Shamarr Allen interview.  You can check him out further and order your copy of "Meet Me on Frenchmen Street" at www.shamarrallen.com.

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New Orleans Diary IV

Based purely on that fratboy nonsense one sees every year as the mass media depiction of Mardi Gras I must say I was less than impressed and never truly compelled to visit New Orleans during that annual carnival.  Being here in the mix is a decidedly different story.  Mardi Gras came early this year, colliding rather closely with the dreaded post-holiday bill receipt season and in direct conflict with the Super Bowl on the last Sunday of carnival.  (We had a Super Bowl party at our house and some of the revelers split to make the short walk to St. Charles Avenue for the big Bacchus parade that evening.)  All that aside from all accounts Mardi Gras ’08 was a much closer return to pre-Katrina levels of both attendance and celebration for the local folks.

 

Though it seems somewhat discounted as more of a lark than an "official" part of the Mardi Gras season, the season kicked off for us royally with the tongue-in-cheek Krewe du Vieux parade through the Marigny and the French Quarter on Saturday, January 19.  There’s something about witnessing a squad of guys dressed as sperm, followed closely behind by a phallus-festooned parade float and led by a smokin’ brass band that’s bound to get you in the spirit!  I’d been forewarned that Krewe du Vieux was not to be missed.  This was the parade with the most over-the-top and biting political satire of all, and the only parade of the entire Mardi Gras season to employ 18 brass bands — including such outstanding examples of the form as Rebirth Brass Band, Treme Brass Band, and the Hot 8.  This was also an excellent taste of nighttime parading and it didn’t take long for that to be a personal preference over the daytime parades. 

 

We were invited that evening to a parade viewing party by Jason Patterson, who books the acts at NOLA’s most vibrant modern jazz club Snug Harbor.  Jason and his affable spouse live upstairs above the club and throughout the night a host of parade revelers — some costumed, some not… all fueled merrily by the spirits of the evening, passed through their place, either to gawk at the passing parade on Frenchman Street below from the balcony or as a refueling stop before re-joining the hooting, hollering & "throw" catchers on the parade route. 

 

The "throws" are one of the keys to Mardi Gras.  Though Krewe du Vieux was high on hilarity it was not one of the big float-dominated parades; more of a walking/marching parade with guys dressed up in full female regalia, gals dressed up in all manner of garb and plenty of spectator shout-outs.  But the "throws" were indeed in evidence.  Those ubiquitous Mardi Gras strands of beads are the main "throw", as parade participants toss their booty and bounty to parade watchers along the route, and the catch is the thing.  We’re not talking about big ticket items here, the main thrill being in who can make the catches and stack up the booty.  Yeah I know, you have to be there.

 

After an excellent trip to Panama (see earlier post) in the wee hours after Krewe du Vieux (we’re talking 2:30am wake-up call!) it was back to NOLA and back to the Mardi Gras mix.  As I said I never really had a bead on the Mardi Gras vibe and was amazed at the sheer number of parades and parties.  For roughly ten days there was a parade every night — sometimes more than one — and both daytime and nighttime parades on the weekends.  Some of the faves were Muses — the all-women parade where males seemed to receive the same preferential "throws" treatment reserved for females on the other parade routes — Tucks was pretty funny, with mini-toilet plungers as one of the prized "throws" (you hadda be there), and two of the so-called "super" parades (so-called because they employ the biggest floats) Endymion and Zulu.

 

Zulu is of particular interest because as the social aid & pleasure club’s name implies it is the major and traditional black parade; some will recall that Louis Armstrong, the Heavyweight Champion of New Orleans music, was the Zulu King for the 1949 parade.  Zulu was started precisely because of the Jim Crow prohibition of black folks from "rolling" (as the parade route movement is referred) in the other parades.  As a result what started out as a spoof or slam on the other parades — black folks "rolling" in blackface — continues to this day, with Zulu also including a share of white folks in blackface. 

 

As I viewed the other parades — with some floats for example populated by crazy looking costumed cats all in greenface, yellowface, purpleface or whatever — I was able to somewhat overcome my initial shock (I knew it was coming, but when the afro bewigged black and white faces on the Zulu rollers came around it was still a shock to the cultural system) by putting the cumulative hilarity of parade participant face painting and all-round masquerading of both the rollers and the spectators in context.  And we nabbed two of the prized Zulu "throws" — one black and one gold painted and decorated coconut (and dig the symbolism there as well).

 

The general parade "rolling" practice appears to be floats sometimes preceeded by  marching revelers (one parade had marching skeletons) and followed by high school and college marching bands.  And that’s where Krewe du Vieux captured the prize, with their rolling procession of brass bands; not to mention the fact that Krewe du Vieux was the only parade other than Zulu to have a black King & Queen.  I found it curious that the Zulu King & Queen were Katrina evacuees still living in Houston.  Would it have been more apt to have a Zulu King & Queen who persevered, weathered the storm and proudly returned to NOLA to assist in the recovery?  You be the judge…

 

 

 

 

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